· By Michael Schmidt
How to Install a GNARWALL Surfboard Wall Mount: Step-by-Step Guide
A GNARWALL mount transforms any wall into a surfboard display and storage solution. Whether you own a single shortboard or a quiver of longboards and SUPs, getting your boards off the floor and onto the wall protects them from dings, saves floor space, and turns your garage or surf room into something worth showing off. The installation takes under 30 minutes and requires only basic tools you almost certainly already own. This guide walks through the entire process step by step — from choosing the right spot to hanging your first board.
Before You Start — Choosing the Right Spot
Picking the right location before you drill is the most important step. A few minutes of planning saves a lot of unnecessary holes in the wall.
- Available wall width: Vertical tip-down mounts (like the GNARWALL Vertical Tip-Down Rack) need as little as 30 cm of clear wall width, making them ideal for narrow hallways or tight spaces. Horizontal mounts need at least the full board length plus 20 cm clearance on each side — measure your board before committing to a spot.
- Wall type: The three common wall types are timber-frame drywall (most modern homes and apartments), plasterboard over masonry (common in older European buildings), and solid masonry — brick, block, or concrete. Each type requires a slightly different fixing approach, covered in detail below.
- Height: Mount your boards at a comfortable lifting height. For most adults, 150–180 cm from the floor to the hanger is the sweet spot — high enough to keep boards clear of foot traffic, low enough to lift them on and off without straining.
- Weight: A standard shortboard weighs 3–5 kg; a performance longboard 7–10 kg; a full-size SUP up to 15 kg. The wall itself is almost never the limiting factor — it is always the fixings. Use the right fixings for your wall type and weight is a non-issue.
Tools You Will Need
No specialist tools required. Here is what to gather before you start:
- Stud finder — for drywall walls, to locate the timber frame behind the plasterboard. Inexpensive models from any hardware store work fine.
- Masonry drill and bits — for brick or concrete walls. Use the correct bit diameter for your wall plugs.
- Spirit level — essential for getting a level mount. Even a small phone level app works in a pinch, but a physical level is more reliable.
- Pencil — for marking stud positions and screw hole locations.
- Drill and drill bits — wood bits for pilot holes in timber studs; masonry bits for brick or concrete.
- Wall plugs — only needed for masonry walls. Not required for timber stud walls.
- Screwdriver or driver bit — a powered driver makes the job faster, but a manual screwdriver works perfectly well.
- Tape measure — for measuring board length, wall width, and mount height.
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1: Find the Studs (Drywall Walls)
If you are mounting on a timber-frame drywall wall, the first job is locating the studs — the vertical timber uprights behind the plasterboard skin. Use a stud finder and run it slowly across the wall at the height where you plan to mount. Studs in modern construction are typically spaced 40 cm or 60 cm apart. Mark each stud position lightly with pencil on the wall.
Important: Always screw into studs. Do not rely on plasterboard anchors or toggle bolts for surfboard storage. A board swinging off the wall is a board getting damaged — and potentially injuring someone.
Step 2: Mark Your Mounting Position
Hold the GNARWALL mount against the wall at your desired height, aligning the mounting holes with the stud positions you marked. Place your spirit level on top of or against the bracket to confirm it is perfectly horizontal. When it is level, use a pencil to mark each screw position through the mounting holes. Step back and double-check the marks look right before drilling anything.
Step 3: Pre-Drill
For timber studs: select a drill bit slightly smaller in diameter than your screws and drill a pilot hole at each marked position. Pilot holes prevent the timber from splitting and make driving the final screws much easier.
For masonry walls: use a masonry drill bit at the correct diameter for your wall plugs. Drill to the depth of the plug plus a few extra millimetres. After drilling, blow out the dust from each hole with a short puff — dust left in the hole prevents plugs from seating properly. Tap in the wall plugs until they sit flush with the wall surface.
Step 4: Mount the Bracket
Align the GNARWALL bracket over the pre-drilled holes and start the first screw by hand to ensure it catches straight. Drive the first screw to roughly finger-tight, then place the spirit level on the bracket again and confirm it is still level before driving the remaining screws. Once all screws are in, tighten firmly — snug is enough. There is no need to overtighten; excessive torque can strip the fixing or crack plasterboard around the hole.
Step 5: Hang Your Board
Each GNARWALL product has its own hanging method, described in the product documentation. Vertical tip-down mounts cradle the nose or tail of the board in a padded cup; horizontal mounts support the rails at two points along the board's length. Before hanging any board, confirm that the neoprene padding is correctly seated on all contact points — it protects both the board's finish and the mount itself.
Lift the board into position, seat it on the mount, and give it a gentle side-to-side wiggle. A well-mounted board should feel completely stable with no rocking or flex in the bracket.
Wall Types — Special Considerations
Timber Stud Drywall (Most Common in Modern Homes)
This is the easiest wall type to work with. Locate the studs, drill pilot holes, drive the screws directly into the timber. If the ideal mounting position falls between two studs rather than on one, the best solution is a horizontal timber batten — a length of 45 × 45 mm timber screwed across two or more studs, which then gives you a solid fixing point anywhere along its length. Paint or stain the batten to match the wall if aesthetics matter.
Masonry — Brick, Block, Concrete
Solid masonry is extremely strong. Use standard M6 wall plugs rated for at least 10 kg per fixing — these are widely available at any hardware store and are more than sufficient for surfboards and SUPs. The key is drilling clean, straight holes at the correct diameter and depth for the plug you are using. An underpowered or blunt drill bit leads to ragged holes that do not grip the plug properly; replace bits before they become dull.
Hollow Block or Aerated Concrete (e.g. Ytong / AAC)
Aerated concrete blocks — sold under brand names such as Ytong — are lightweight and common in European construction but have significantly lower pull-out strength than solid brick. Do not use standard expanding wall plugs in aerated concrete; they will pull through under load. Instead, use specialist hollow-wall anchors or chemical resin anchors designed for this material. Your local building materials supplier will be able to advise on the correct product for your specific block type and the weight you need to carry.
Shop GNARWALL Mounts
Eisbach Riders stocks the full GNARWALL range — from compact single-board vertical mounts to multi-board horizontal systems for dedicated surf rooms and garages.
FAQ
Can I mount GNARWALL on a rental flat wall?
Yes — but check your lease first. Most rental agreements allow small drill holes for wall fixtures, and filling them with standard wall filler on departure is a routine part of moving out. Thousands of renters mount GNARWALL and simply patch the holes when they leave. If in doubt, ask your landlord in writing.
How much weight can GNARWALL hold?
The GNARWALL product itself is not the limiting factor — the wall fixing is. When correctly installed into timber studs or with the appropriate masonry plugs, each mount handles well over the weight of a standard surfboard. Follow the fixing recommendations for your wall type and you will have plenty of margin.
Do I need to wax my board before hanging it?
No — wax has no effect on how a board hangs or stores. One thing to avoid: do not hang a wet board directly after a session with the tail or nose pressed against the wall. Rinse the board, give it a few minutes to drip dry, and then rack it. Trapping moisture between the board and the wall can cause discolouration on light-coloured walls over time.